This post is also available in: Kreyol
When most people see Haiti, many think of the metropolitan city of Port-au-Prince while Haiti is so much more than that. Most of the country is made up of more rural villages like Furcy; which feel almost untouched, hidden within the mountains.
Angello Jean, Founder of Vwayajè
“The country’s precarious insecurity discourages us from discovering our country. [It] is beautiful and rich. It is time for us to learn and truly know about our country”, explained Angello, the founder of Vwayajè. For over a year, the US State Department’s travel advisory has listed Haiti as a level 4 country — a “do not travel country” — warning travelers to consider the risks of traveling to, and remaining in Haiti, due to the current security situation and infrastructural challenges. According to OCID’s 2021 National Survey, security stands at the forefront of worrisome issues, with over 62% of the population noting this. “In a nation of over 10 million people, these very real struggles persist threatening to suppress our socio-economic growth and stifling us from experiencing the wonder that is our Ayiti Cheri. Despite it all. We must go on.” Angello continued.
Vwayajè is a local ecotourism initiative led by Angello Jean and a group of local guides, responsibly traveling to rural areas across the country, working to conserve the environment and to improve the well-being of local people. Vwayajè, which translates to traveler in Haitian Creole, launched in 2021, with the goal of encouraging us to discover the nature, wealth and value of Haiti through its heritage and patrimony, while respecting the environment and protecting the local culture. The project operates with the expressed purpose of directly benefiting the socio-economic well-being of the local communities it works in, and fostering further respect for Haiti’s local culture, people, and biodiversity.
After a 6 month hiatus, Angello knew that if he wanted to keep his vision alive, he needed to take a leap of faith and organize a hike. In the summer of 2022, the Vwayajè team returned to the town of Furcy where this initiative was initially launched. Furcy is a cool mountain village, located about an hour from Petion-Ville and 30 miles southeast of Port-au-Prince. Resting about 5,000 feet above the nation’s capital, this village’s welcoming community, breathtaking views and ecological preserves made it the perfect place for Vwayajè to begin. Angello quickly grew an affinity for the people of Furcy — working in partnership with the community to designate campgrounds like ‘Kay Jean Paul’ where locals and travelers alike could explore Haiti’s natural wonders.
“ When most people see Haiti, many think of the metropolitan city of Port-au-Prince while Haiti is so much more than that. Most of the country is made up of more rural villages like Furcy; which feel almost untouched, hidden within the mountains. And yet, the beauty often belies a struggle”, Angello continued.
Upon entering the town, the paved roads that wind up Kenscoff end and the earthy red terracotta gravel forms a path through the outskirts of the town. Extremely limited infrastructure, food insecurity, and water access issues are exacerbated in more remote areas like Furcy.
Most residents toil the land to survive. They are subsistence farmers with small patches of land, growing limited crops alongside the tiny wooden houses sprinkled across the hills.
Climate change profoundly impacts communities like Furcy. Growing periods of extreme drought and flash flooding take a heavy toll on rural farming communities. This is compounded by widespread neglect on the part of government entities, and poor public policies which continue to undermine the country’s capacity to sustain itself — pushing most residents to migrate from their farms to the cities. Haiti’s cities do not have the capacity to absorb large amounts of people due to the deepening socio-economic crisis most live in today.
“When we launched Vwayajè, we always kept the bigger picture in mind. We yearn for natives and travelers alike to care for and nurture this land. To be able to thrive, pass down this wealth and plan for future generations. We know this work can’t be done alone. We need the government to support communities like Furcy with infrastructure and leadership. We need our community, our leaders and government to stand hand in hand with each other, preserving that which is here, as we plan for the future”.
Haiti‘s rugged terrain creates an ideal ecotourism destination for the adventurous, laid-back, socially-conscious traveler.
Ironically, this untouched gem offers it all. From rich culture and traditions, delicious organically grown food, warm sandy beaches, cool lush mountain tops, hundreds of pristine falls, and cozy valleys nested in between.
In 2022, Forbe’s magazine ranked Haiti one of the 50 most beautiful countries in the World. Although, of late, exploring the island nation rarely pops to the top of our search engines. The deteriorating socio-economic situation and mass migration of Haitians fleeing for refuge flood our headlines and this needs to change.
The protracted political instability and gang violence menaces citizens locally, and greatly exacerbates the fragile situation of those in more remote areas like Furcy, where communities have systematically been neglected entirely. The population looks to the government for leadership. The government is mandated to provide security and infrastructure to their citizens. It’s the state’s job.
Those we have chosen as leaders need to act and stand with the communities they represent. While writing this article, the number of people in need of emergency food assistance grew from 3 to 4 million people (or about 30-40% of the population). Haiti has one of the highest levels of food insecurity in the world with 4.5 million Haitians — nearly half the population — without enough to eat.
Though endeavors like Vwayajè encourage us to celebrate, preserve and care for the land our ancestors fought for, it can’t end there. The country requires structural guidance and development. We can’t continue to exist in silos as we have been — as our forefathers warned us. Together we are stronger.
Featured Image: Christina Jean-Louis